Coffee Bay
Arrived yesterday late afternoon in Coffee Bay.  Quite a long ride to get to this part of S. Africa.  From the main drag it was another 90 minutes by shuttle.  Greeted with a free bottle of beer and a very tropical island venue.  My dorm is a thatched hut.  Buffet dinner of something that had a local flavor even if it was beef and vegetables.

Today they tried to scare us tourists. I went for the guided hike with 10 other kids to see the local caves by the sea.  The information on the blackboard said it was an hour and a half hike and for those who were seeking thrills they could jump into the water from a cliff. 

I thought, gee, this will be an easy thing to do as I can just watch folks jumping. Turns out there were steep climbs up and around the ocean cliffs. 

If I hadn't done the Alps, Cape Town's Lion's Head trail and the Cango Caves Adventure I would have found this hike daunting at say the least. 

There were kids saying "Whoa, you want me to cross that!". 

Two girls were too scared to jump into the river from 25-30 ft up.  I've never jumped into a river yet and wasn't about to try today with a cool wind blowing and no bathing suit.  All the guys jumped.  It was interesting to watch. 

Anyway, tomorrow the guided tour is "abseiling" which involves repelling oneself down a cliff.  You will not find me signing up for that! 

Weather nice today must have been in the 60's.

Xhosa
Yesterday was probably the most interesting day so far. Visited the local Xhosa (pronounced Kosa) tribe village and stayed there overnight with a family. 

Tobili, the village guide, is wearing baseball cap

Inside the hut with the family cat

The guide spoke of their way of life and ate a dinner of corn hominy, cabbage, onion and beans--Very filling. 

They bake bread in a large cast iron kettle where they burn wood on top as well as on bottom. 

Men have to give a dowry of 15 cows ($700 ea) in order to marry.  To buy land they have to ask the headman of the village (above the headsman is the chief who probably rules over 20 villages). Then they can build their hut of mud brick, put down a floor of cow manure plaster with a thatched roof with a tire on top to keep the birds from roosting on it.  At least their house is paid for and their crops feed them most of the year. 

Huts

Only the months of January and February are lean because they spend too much money celebrating Christmas.  Spent part of the evening learning how to “click” in Xhosa language.  Had to sleep on a grass mat (took my sleeping bag and cushion) in the same hut as the 25-year old male guide (who had a bed) which felt a little weird.  It is supposedly the tradition to have guests sleep on grass mats.  This certainly felt like a real village experience as there were no special provisions made for tourists.  Definitely a worthwhile tour -- cost all of $18 and included lodging, dinner, and breakfast.

Today did another hike to a local phenomenon called "Hole in the Wall". 

"Hole in the Wall". Jumpers swim out to the hole and climb up the cliff and jump into the arch.

It was a long hike but not technically difficult. They said 8 km, but it felt more like 6 miles to me.   Swimming to the hole required being able to swim in the ocean with large waves so I did not tackle it.  The other four hikers did the jump into the arch of the hole.  One fellow did get banged up against some rocks and got scratched up a bit.  They toasted cheese sandwiches on the beach over an open fire for lunch.  My feet are very tired.  Treated myself to a Milk Stout Beer. 

There was a masquerade party in the evening and I won a free drink for best mask.

Marisa in disguise

Everything at the Coffee Shack hostel was on tab and then one can pay with a credit card.  They have a varied menu and several specials. 
Click here for a tour of Coffee Shack.

Tomorrow I leave for another 7 hour bus ride to Durban so my feet will get a rest.

Continue to Durban
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